{"id":903,"date":"2012-03-19T21:45:00","date_gmt":"2012-03-19T21:45:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/2012\/03\/19\/learn-to-speak-the-languagewhy-the-lo-heads-are-masters\/"},"modified":"2012-03-19T21:45:00","modified_gmt":"2012-03-19T21:45:00","slug":"learn-to-speak-the-languagewhy-the-lo-heads-are-masters","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/2012\/03\/19\/learn-to-speak-the-languagewhy-the-lo-heads-are-masters\/","title":{"rendered":"Learn to Speak the Language:Why the \u2018Lo Heads are Masters…"},"content":{"rendered":"

[Jesse Thorn thinks it through. If you haven’t seen the video, you should watch that first. -egg]
Learn to Speak the Language:
Why the \u2018Lo Heads are Masters…<\/a>: <\/p>\n

Learn to Speak the Language:<\/strong>
Why the \u2018Lo Heads are Masters of Sartorial Discourse<\/strong>
Would I wear a sweater with a picture of a teddy bear wearing Polo business clothes? Or a Polo Golf tie with an illustration of a golfer on it? Or a black leather Polo suit? No way. A jacket that says \u201cSNOW BEACH\u201d on it? Absolutely not.
So why did we feature \u2018Lo Heads in our first episode? Wearing clothes that I wouldn\u2019t wear myself, in ways I wouldn\u2019t wear them?
Dressing is a fundamentally discursive act. The most sophisticated dressers are engaged in a three-way conversation – between the creator of their clothing, themselves, and the people they interact with while dressed. This happens in the context of a broad set of only semi-shared cultural values. The designer intends one meaning, the wearer recombines it, recontextualizes it, and gives it new meaning, and then that meaning is interpreted by the people the wearer interacts with in ways that the wearer could never have conceived.
I think that these guys, deeply immersed in this \u2018Lo Heads culture, are incredibly fluent at this discourse. They\u2019re living it. Any of us, no matter what our personal sense of aesthetics, or our personal goals for can learn from their example.
So let\u2019s break it down a little.
The first level: there\u2019s an interesting statement made, of course, when a black or Puerto Rican guy from the hood wears clothes that are self-consciously associated with activities (yachting, skiing, golf) that have powerful ties to whiteness and richness. The guy from the hood is subverting those values. His act is a thumb in the eye to the rich (and white) that says that not only can those symbols of privilege be appropriated by the downtrodden, the downtrodden can rock that shit better<\/em>.
Dallas describes the Polo-obsessed culture as a function of \u201cAspirational Apparel.\u201d I think that\u2019s part of it. When you\u2019re \u201csick and tired of being sick and tired,\u201d as one guy put it, you want to represent something for yourself that\u2019s more than that. But here\u2019s the limitation of that description: this is not a literal act. These are not poor people striving to be as much like rich people as possible. This is a symbolic<\/em> act.
We asked person after person, \u201cwould you get on a yacht?\u201d \u201cHave you ever been skiing?\u201d \u201cDo you like golf?\u201d and to a man, the answer was a laughing \u201cHELL no.\u201d
In other words: these folks don\u2019t aspire to be<\/em> the rich. They aspire to success, sure, like any of us, but they aren\u2019t supplicating themselves before upper-class white culture, asking to be let in. They don\u2019t aspire to join the club. They aspire to take the symbols of privilege and give them new meaning. To rock them better.
In fact, if the clothes are worn in new ways – think of Dallas\u2019 tie-outside-sweater look – all the better. Like hip-hop slang, the goal is to create an insider\u2019s argot, a way of recombining these symbols of privilege into something with one meaning for people who \u201cget it\u201d and one meaning for people who don\u2019t. Alienating the outsiders is part of creating an insider culture.
There\u2019s also something fascinating to me about the specific preferences that Polo collectors demonstrate. I was wearing a corduroy Polo blazer the night we recorded at Lo Goose on the Deuce (\u201call eras, all styles welcome,\u201d it said on the invite). Needless to say, there weren\u2019t a lot of other guys there rocking corduroy blazers – despite the fact that corduroy has a rich sporting heritage.
Polo collectors like stuff with graphic and textual representations of the abstract class ideas they\u2019re pursuing. Abstractions of abstractions. Ties with pictures of golfers. Jackets with pictures of skiiers. The Polo Bear.
The Polo Bear is the perfect collectible for Lo Heads. He\u2019s a brand icon who appears mostly on annually-released sweaters. A teddy bear who wears Polo clothes. That makes the Polo Bear sweater a representation of a representation of class, through an icon (a teddy bear) that\u2019s completely non-human, for maximum abstraction.
The reason the Polo fans love Ralph Lauren is that while he has always admired the aesthetics of English schools and Great-Gatsby Americana, he himself was a poor, Jewish New York kid. His name and brand were made up from whole cloth. His creations are fundamentally (and shamelessly) inauthentic. Their value is in how perfectly they celebrate an idea of Americanness that is both tied to race and class and somehow self-consciously cut off from it. The premise of his work is that he\u2019s going to grab the symbols and aesthetics and rock them better.
I don\u2019t want to get too semiotic on you, but our clothes have very limited inherent values. Warm\/not-warm and keeps the sun off are pretty much it. Maybe some portion of our aesthetic values are in-born, that\u2019s an argument for a different day. Everything else about getting dressed is symbolic. You\u2019re participating in a conversation. Learn to speak the language.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

[Jesse Thorn thinks it through. If you haven’t seen the video, you should watch that first. -egg]Learn to Speak the Language:Why the \u2018Lo Heads are Masters…: Learn to Speak the Language:Why the \u2018Lo Heads are Masters of Sartorial DiscourseWould I wear a sweater with a picture of a teddy bear wearing Polo business clothes? Or […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-903","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3pfIY-ez","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/903","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=903"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/903\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=903"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=903"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.novonon.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=903"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}